loving life in my 50s

There’s nothing like a week away in sunny Bordeaux to lift the spirits after a long, grey English winter!

I’ll say upfront that I’m an enthusiastic, passionate Francophile. I am crazy about the country, the people, their way of life, their food and wine – and how wonderful I feel whenever I’m there. For many years, it’s been one of my favourite places!

Even though I’ve passed very close to the elegant city of Bordeaux on previous holidays, this was my first visit and I was excited to be experiencing it for a week over Easter with Sarah, my companion extraordinaire.

Bordeaux in a Nutshell

In 300BC, the Celts built what was then known as the city of Burdigala (later called Bordeaux). The Romans arrived in 60BC and since their departure, this fair city has undergone many challenges and changes of rulers between the English, Germans and the French, and for a time during both World Wars, the French government relocated here.

Almost everywhere you look around Bordeaux, you’ll see stunning buildings depicting Classic French architecture down through the ages. There’s so much to see and do within the city itself: museums (including two wine museums!); art galleries; little arcades full of unusual shops; and squares lined with cafés, churches, apartments and hotels. In fact, Bordeaux’s Place des Quinconces is the largest square in Europe.

River Garonne

The River Garonne winds its way around the southern edge of the city, with broad walkways to cater to pedestrians, cyclists, skaters and runners. From here, you can take in the views across the water to the Darwin area, Napoleon’s bridge called Ponte de Pierre, Cité du Vin in the distance – and alongside the walkways there is the magical fountain Miroir d’Eau, as well as the many grand buildings this city has to offer.

Although it’s home to more than one million people, Bordeaux has the beat and energy of a city without it feeling hectic. There’s a lot of traffic but the drivers all seem to be patient and calm, readily stopping to let cars cut in and pedestrians cross the street, even where there’s no pedestrian-crossing. And shop-keepers tend to have welcoming smiles and are happy to engage, particularly if you try even the basics of speaking French.

Bordeaux Quarters

Bordeaux has many Quarters, each with its own distinctive quality. Many streets are tree-lined with gorgeous apartments sporting tiny, ornate balconies and colourful shutters. Cycle ways and walkways are throughout the city, making it a dream to be able to wander at will, trying to take it all in. And when you feel like you can’t manage another step, you’re most likely fairly close to a tram stop to help you on your way back or a chic café or bar to refresh and revive!

Perfect conditions to sit outside in the cafés eating and drinking …

As it’s in the south of France, close to the Atlantic coast, the light is so much brighter, and if you’re lucky, the weather is warmer and the sun seems to shine more frequently … perfect conditions to sit outside in the cafes eating, drinking, talking, watching the world go by or just soaking in the sun, trying to believe you’re actually here! And I haven’t even mentioned the enormous variety of food available! Even the supermarkets are a feast for the senses, with an abundance of mouth-watering produce artistically presented!

In terms of the wonderful Bordeaux wine, it’s lucky for the wine lovers amongst us that throughout every century of the past 2000 years, the Bordelaise have continued to make wine! And, it’s not too far to venture outside the city to explore vineyards in the famous wine-growing areas of Médoc, Pomerol and the beautiful St-Emilion. 

Bordeaux is full of surprises

Bordeaux is a city full of surprises. This article only covers a fraction of what’s available and we saw so much more. So, if you’re looking for somewhere to do as little or as much as you choose, it’s a great destination. Hopefully the following will whet your appetite a little more…

Miroir d’Eau – the Water Mirror

This is a ‘must-see’ place to experience as it’s an iconic art installation in the form of a large lake that’s only 2cm deep across a granite base. Every 20-minutes it moves through three phases – the first phase is like an incoming tide with the water a little agitated, the second phase is like a low tide where you get the best reflections, and the third phase is the mystical mist-effect.

The Miroir d’Eau, as well as all the other fountains of Bordeaux, are turned off from November to April, with the exact dates being dependent on the frosts. The good news is that even when it is turned off, there is often the ‘low tide’ of 2cm of water, so you can still get to see the stunning mirror-like reflections of the grand 18th century buildings, the sky and people passing. And it’s apparently the largest water mirror of its kind in the world!

Jardin Public

This is a beautiful park in the middle of the city, built in 1746, with grassed areas to play ball, benches to sit on to read and relax, and ample trees offering shade to shelter from the midday sun. There’s also a picturesque stream running along one side with boats and birdlife. Adjoining Jardin Public is the Jardin Botanique, where you can wander along the paths enjoying the myriad of plants being carefully raised in the flower beds.

It’s a lovely place to take a picnic and join in with the locals, enjoying the beauty and serenity of this centuries-old park – and it’s free.

La Cité du Vin – City of Wine

This unique cultural centre is dedicated to the living heritage of wine throughout the world. It takes you on a journey through the ages, across countless cultures and civilisations, sharing the story of wine using audiovisual displays and interactive play.

If you like, you can book ahead online to save queuing and head straight up to the top floor, where you can choose a glass of Bordeaux wine and wander around the viewing platform at your leisure. The views over the city, along the river and looking down on the Chaban-Delmas bridge (if you’re lucky, you may see the central section rise to let a ship pass!), help to get a perspective on the size and layout of this vibrant city.

As a wine and history-enthusiast, I spent a couple of interesting hours here. The architecture of the building is like nothing I’ve ever seen before and I’m glad I went. It’s just a short tram-ride from the city centre.

Place de la Comedie

This is a fairly busy square with mainly pedestrians and the occasional trams passing across it. On one side, it’s bordered by the beautiful Grand Théâtre (built in the 18th century – maybe there’s a performance you can attend!) and on the opposite side is the Intercontinental – le Grand Hotel, where you can have a refreshing break at the outdoor café and people-watch to your heart’s content – or head upstairs to the rooftop bar with its great views over the city.

Also in this popular square is a 7m-high cast-iron sculpture of a woman’s head that is striking in its 3-D effect. Sanna was created by Catalan sculptor, Jaume Plensa and is much-loved by the people of Bordeaux and visitors alike, so it’s worth taking the time to stop by and appreciate ‘her’.

Rue Sainte-Catherine

From unique specialty shops to the usual high street stores, as well as the iconic French department store, Galerie Lafayette, you’re sure to find something you would like to buy here. It’s one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe at 1.2km long, and it’s worth a visit as there are still some bargains to be had while you drink-in the chic store designs and architecture all around you. And the top of Rue Sainte-Catherine is Place de la Comedie – let the exploring and shopping begin!

Place des Quinconces

Place des Quinconces is the largest square in Europe, being 12-hectare square in size! There are many thriving trees here, planted in staggered rows, similar to the shape of 5 on a dice. Tramlines, buses and Vcub bikes are within this great park, which hosts many events throughout the year. We were lucky enough to be there for the annual antiques fair, with what seemed like hundreds of stalls selling all manner of antiquities.

Place des Quinconces is the place to see sculptures

This is the place to see sculptures! At the river-end of the square are two rostral columns, each with a sculpture on top – one dedicated to Bordeaux’s commercial activities and the other to its maritime activities. In the centre of the park there are two large statues of Bordeaux’s famous philosophers – Montaigne and Montesquieu.

At the other end of the park is the stunning le Monument aux Girondins, which was built as a memorial to the Girondins who took part in the French Revolution (their names are on a plaque here). It has bronze fountains surrounded by magnificent sculptures of horses, people and mythical creatures. Rising above the fountains is another column, topped with a statue of Liberty breaking her chains to be free. It’s a beautiful park for a stroll.

Museum of Contemporary Art of Bordeaux

Created 40 years ago in a former colonial warehouse, this museum has 1300 works (by 190 artists) on permanent exhibition, as well as temporary exhibitions and lectures. Be sure to take a break from the modern art and head to the roof-terrace to enjoy a café or a local wine. Check first for opening times, and if you’re there on a weekend, you may be fortunate to book into the special brunch, which is a feast of fabulous food.

Walking and Cycling

Whether you choose to meander through the heart of the city or the Old Town, frolic in the parks or promenade along the bank of the Garonne River – it’s hard to beat the joy of walking and cycling – especially in a city like Bordeaux where these options are very well catered for.

Eglise Notre-Dame

It’s a beautiful baroque and Romanesque-style church tucked behind the Intercontinental – le Grand Hotel – in Place du Chapelet. Back in the 13th century, the church and the courtyard behind it, called Cours Mably (keep your eyes open in case there’s an exhibition here), were part of a Dominican monastery.

This church has such a serene energy and elegant simplicity. We visited in the daytime, where we’d each lit a candle for our Mums, and as we passed by one evening, just before midnight, we saw people standing around after Mass. Everyone was hugging and smiling, chatting to the priests and to each other, and we felt very welcome to go in again.

Inside there is a series of 10 religious paintings from 1662 – 1735, beautiful stained-glass windows attributed to the master Bordeaux glassmakers Villiet and Hutrel, and an organ from 1775 which is still used to this day.

Wining and Dining

Bordeaux abounds with cafes, bars and restaurants, offering a dynamic array of gastronomic delights! I implore you to visit the Saint-Pierre Quarter, in the centre of the old town. We only discovered this area on our last night, but we’ll be back!

There’s a real buzz mixed with tantalising aromas

There are small squares and streets full of people walking, talking and laughing, enjoying their drinks and meals al fresco as well as inside the many wonderfully ambient restaurants and bars. There’s a real buzz, mixed with the tantalising aromas of dishes from Greece, Turkey, Italy, England, Japan, and of course, many styles of French food. How did we miss this earlier?

Throughout the city, I love dropping in on the many patisseries, to smell the fresh, warm baguettes and ogle at the selection of mouth-watering pastries, made with such artistic flair, such as cheesecakes, éclairs, and many I’ve never seen before. Once you place your order, these delicious treats are then wrapped carefully and placed in little boxes, looking like the gifts they are. Keep an eye open for Bordeaux’s famous little cake, Le Canalé Baillardran, with its caramelised shell and soft centre, flavoured with a drop of rum and vanilla.

Favourite places to dine

Bistro Regent

6 Cours Georges Clemenceau, 33000 Bordeaux
It’s full of local people, which is always a good sign. The food is very tasty and good value for money. Try its grilled duck with the most amazing sauce, accompanied by frites.

Café du Musée en Musée d’Art Contemporain de Bordeaux

7 rue Férrére, Bordeaux 33000
It’s the café in the Museum of Contemporary Arts, on the top floor. Check for the opening hours before you go, and look out for the special weekend brunch.

La Tagliatella

14 Rue Guiraude, CC Promenade Sainte Catherine, Bordeaux 33000 (in a square off Rue St-Catherine)
It has a great outdoor eating area in the square, which is a lovely sun-trap in the cooler weather. Try the Insalata Basilico Caprese (salad) – with mixed leaves, tomatoes, stracciatella cheese, pesto pearls and peach jam, served with a ball of basil ice cream and Pergamena bread. Delicious!

Pizzeria Peponne

Dal 75, 31 Cours Georges Clemenceau, Bordeaux 33000
This is a cosy, buzzing Italian restaurant with very friendly staff and great food – home-made pasta and pizza, and other favourites. It’s very popular!

Ottoman

18 Rue des Faussets, Bordeaux 33000
In Saint-Pierre, this very atmospheric restaurant feels as though you’ve been transported into a yurt in Turkey, with its decor, music and tantalising tastes and aromas. When you step back out onto the busy laneway, it takes a moment or two to remember you’re in France! Well worth a visit!

Day trip to Arcachon

We took the train to Arcachon to visit the Atlantic and spent a day exploring this popular area. See my upcoming blog on this.

Bordeaux wines

Bordeaux wines are available everywhere – even in the supermarket – and they’re truly delicious! As they say … ‘when in Rome … er … Bordeaux …’

Yet to explore

We had a wonderful time exploring this grand city, and as I love walking, taking my time over a delicious meal or watching the world go by as I sip on a café latte, in preference to racing around to see everything – there were many things I didn’t get to do.

Next time, I’d like to try hiring an electric scooter and a bike, take a cruise along the river, and do a day trip out of the city to some wineries in Medoc, Pomerol and St-Emilion.

Getting around

Vcub – bike rentals

Bikes are a bargain at €1.60 for 24 hours BUT you’ll need to put in your credit card and it will take a €200 deposit which you will get back after five days – and that’s per bike! There are many places around the city to pick one up/drop it off. Read this first!

Trams, buses and BatCUB (ferry)

Travelling by any of these options is a great way to get about and explore this gorgeous city from one end to the other. Tickets are interchangeable on all three modes of transport. A one-hour pass is € 1.60; 10 x 1-hr pass is €12.90; and an All-day pass is €4.60.

Make sure you validate your ticket as soon as you get onboard. Tickets for buses can be bought directly from the driver. For the tram, there are machines at most tram stops. Click here for more information.

Getting to and from the Airport

We flew out from the wonderful Bristol Airport, where parking and going through Customs was a well-organised and smooth transition. The flight only took 95 minutes, and soon we were in the French sunshine on the tarmac at Bordeaux Airport.

It’s possible to get into the city from Bordeaux Airport via bus (to the main train station) but as we were staying in the heart of the city, we chose to go by Uber as we’ve used it before in Paris and Lisbon where it was incredibly easy and it felt very safe, as on the Uber App you can see the driver’s details, car registration, route and total cost (which has been very reasonable in those places) and it’s charged to your credit card. Just download and set up the Uber App before you leave home to make it easier.

Our 20-minute journey to our apartment in the city was only €23. Our driver was very friendly and gave us as much information as he could, considering our French is, well, not as good as it could be – especially at the start of the holiday before we tuned-in to the beautiful lilting tones of the Aquitane dialect.

Worth noting

Bordeaux Airport’s Billi Terminal is currently being upgraded for 2020. Arrivals was easy, but when it’s time to depart, make sure you allow at least 75 minutes to finish with baggage checking and security, and then ensure you’re ready at the gate before it’s due to close. At present, there’s only one café in the Billi Terminal and it’s expensive and the service is slow.

Accommodation

We rented a lovely apartment on Airbnb in the Quinconces Quarter, not far from Place Tourny. It’s a lovely part of the city, with many restaurants, cafes, bars and patisseries to choose from. Also it’s only a 10-minute walk to Rue St Catherine and slightly longer to the riverside.

As we climbed the three flights of marble stairs with the landlady’s daughter helping me carry my large suitcase (I forgot about lifts being quite rare on the Continent!), I was hoping the apartment would look like the photos that had sold it to us.

I needn’t have worried. The apartment was very chic and even though it was simply and sparsely furnished, it definitely had the ‘wow!’ factor. We also loved it as we felt safe any time of the day or night, walking around the tree-lined streets, full of stylish, well-cared for buildings.

Bordeaux is a beautiful city and I hope you get the chance to visit one of these days. In the meantime, happy travels until we meet again …

For more information on this grand city, contact Bordeaux Tourism

Photos by Sue Smart

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